Off the Grid: Sailing to the Dry Tortugas

           About seventy miles west of Key West are the Dry Tortugas National Park.  The Park encompasses a group of seven small islands that were settled in the early 1800’s by the military with the purpose to build a defensive fort at the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico.  Using prisoners and slaves as labor, the work was difficult. Storms, heat and insects plagued the residents of the island. The fort was abandoned and never completed due to concerns about the structure settling and sinking.

           Today, it is a national park where visitors can come for the day. Transportation is by either ferry or seaplane from Key West, or arrive by private boat for an extended stay.  Primitive camping is available on the island but there is no fresh water available or garbage disposal. Bring everything you need with you and take all your trash with you when you leave.

           We provisioned, filled the water tanks and emptied the holding tanks before leaving Key West (you can’t pump out anywhere in the park either, which extends the entire distance from Key West).  With a late start after stopping at the marina, we spent our first night anchored off the Marquesas’ Islands, a halfway point on our journey.  Our approach was greeted by many dolphins showing off their talents and several enormous sea turtles greeting us as we anchored.

           Arriving at Fort Jefferson the next day, we dropped anchor just off the fort in 12-14 feet of water.  The water is crystal clear and that beautiful teal you can only find in the tropics.  The current is minimal and it was amazing to just swim and snorkel right off the back of the boat.

The Racket of Terns!

           Daytime is noisy at Fort Jefferson.  The seaplanes land just beside the anchorage and are a bit intimidating seeing them approach so close to the mast!  The ferry arrives around 10 am and stays until late afternoon.  The island of Bird Key is a nesting site for Sooty terns and Brown Noddy terns, hence the closure of the island February through September.  They are incredibly noisy!  What a racket!

           By sunset, peace and quiet reigns.  The tourists have returned to Key West, leaving only cruisers and a few campers on the island.  The birds go to sleep for the night and cease their racket. We are able to relax in the cockpit, watching the amazing sunsets over the calm waters.

Touring the Fort

           We spent almost an entire day exploring the fort.  Signs help bring history to life, describing the stories of the prisoners who were forced to labor there and the officers who supervised them.  A large cistern runs beneath the surface of the fort to collect rain water, the only source of fresh water on the island.  The Park Rangers live in the remaining residences on the island and part of the old fort, with few opportunities to leave the island. 

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           After Sombrero Reef, the snorkeling at Fort Jefferson was a bit disappointing.  Much of the coral reef has been destroyed and only a few colorful fish ventured around the island.  But the water was warm and crystal clear with little current to contend with.  The peace and beauty are indescribable.